The Fur Trade
StructureThe fur trade is a multi-billion dollar worldwide industry. The total retail sales of the largest consumer country, the United States, were $1.25 billion in 1996. Of this, 57%, or $720 million, was actual sales of fur, the rest was income on services and accessories.From animal to coat several sectors of the fur industry are involved. The breeder or the trapper kills and skins the animals. Through a dealer or co-operation the skins are sold at auctions. The main fur auctions are at New York, Seattle, Toronto, Helsinki, Copenhagen and St. Petersburg. The buyers are dealers or larger manufacturers who buy the skins and stitch them into coats or plates. Dressed skins and coats are mostly traded through fur fairs around the world, e.g. Frankfurt, Hong Kong, Tokyo and Montreal. The furrier or department store retailer then sells the coats to the public. There are about 1,350 retail furriers in the United States and a number of department stores, which usually lease their space to larger fur retail companies.
TrappingWild animals are mostly caught with traps and snares (10%). Most used are the leghold trap and the conibear trap (named after its inventor, Frank Conibear). Leghold traps were used in earlier centuries to keep poachers from English nobleman's property and were called "man traps". When the Europeans came to North America, they introduced the smaller version to catch fur bearing animals. It has been used ever since.Around twenty target species of animal are commonly trapped, with Raccoon, Muskrat, Wild Mink and Red Fox being the most popular. Commercial trapping mainly takes place in the United States, Canada and Russia with some smaller numbers of animals caught in countries such as Argentina, New Zealand and Denmark (Greenland). Trapping takes place in winter, when the animals fur is at its thickest. Most animals trapped are nocturnal. Semi-aquatic animals like mink and beaver are usually caught in so called "drowning sets" that pull the animal under water. Gruesome tests have shown that it may take as long as 18 minutes for a beaver to drown. Many countries use cages, traps or snares for pest control purposes, e.g., Holland annually catches around 400,000 muskrats, in order to protect its dikes. The muskrat is a non-native species which was released from European farms by the fur trade in the 1920's after breeding programs failed. In order to avoid a commercial trapping industry, which would want to maintain a large population, the sale of muskrat pelt is not allowed in the Netherlands.
Leghold Trap
Trash
Killing
Alternative Traps
Indigenous People Most damaging to the income of all trappers has been the expansion of fur farming. 80% of all fur now comes from farms. Most money that is still made in the fur trade ends up in the pockets of the dealers and retailers at the end of the chain. Those are typically not the native people. In the U.S., where much of the trapping takes place, very few native people are involved in trapping and they are definitely not dependent on trapping for their livelihood. The average income of trappers even in peak years is not more than a few hundred dollars. No one can claim to make a living off such an amount. Trapping is also seasonal and takes place during 2 months in winter. Those who spend that time trapping, have another source of income during the remaining 10 months. The truth is that most trappers trap animals for fun and make a little bit of money on the side.
Seals
FarmingIn 1878, the first Silver foxes were commercially bred on Prince Edward Island, Canada. It would take another 40 years before fur farming would spread to other parts of the world, particularly the Scandinavian countries. Using research and primitive experiments breeders have succeeded in creating over 30 colours of mink fur. Mink (90%) and foxes are the main species bred on fur farms. Other animals like Chinchilla, Nutria (Coypu), Sable, Lynx, Raccoon dog, and ferret are commercially bred in small numbers. Fur farms are situated in the colder climates of Scandinavia, Western Europe, Russia, North America, China, Korea and Japan.Mink farms look pretty much the same everywhere in the world. They are long rows of cages under an open shed. Each farm has several of those sheds. Small farms will have a maximum of 100 animals, while the largest in Scandinavia has over 100,000 animals. The cages, flooring included, are made of wire mesh, which makes it difficult for the animals to stand on them, especially for the younger animals. Almost everywhere the standard measures are 70 centimeters long, 20 to 30 cm wide and 40 cm high. Nesting boxes are fitted onto the cages and there is drinking water in a tiny bowl fitted on each cage. In the winter an 'anti-freeze' solution might be added to the water to try to prevent it from turning to ice. The food consists of a mash of meat and fish offal and flour. In some cases this stuff is mixed with carcasses of mink, foxes or other animals that have died prematurely. In Canada, Finland and Russia the meat of seals is fed to the animals on fur farms. In May the pups are born. Five per nest on average. After seven months their life is over. They are gassed (often with car exhaust fumes), or die through neck breaking or injection. The animal welfare problems connected to fur farming are significant. Mink are very agile creatures, very much like ferrets, but also very undomesticated. They love running, swimming, playing, climbing and they are very inquisitive. In captivity their options to exercise natural behaviour are totally frustrated, resulting in abnormal physical and psychological conditions. According to animal behaviour scientists, certain social patterns of behaviour of domesticated farm animals can remain unchanged for a period of over 5,000 years.
Other AnimalsNot all animals used for fur have been trapped or farmed. A relatively small number of fur coats are made from animals like goat, calf, foal, lamb, kangaroo, seal, rabbit and even house cats and dogs. Being small in number, one particular species stands out. The Karakul lamb from Afghanistan and South West Africa are killed and skinned right after birth in order to maintain the fine curly structure of the fur. Even more prized are the so called Breitzwanz or broadtail lambs, who are born prematurely, often induced by the 'shepherd'. This fetus fur has greater economical value than the usual persian lamb fur due to its light structure.
RetailEvery year the fur industry claims that 'fur is back'. Throughout the years this wishful thinking has remained just that. Worldwide fur sales were highest in 1987 and have dropped dramatically since, only to stabilize in the last 3-4 years. Hundreds of thousands of people in many countries have decided not to buy a fur coat. Fur retail sales in the United States were $1.8 billion in 1987 and have been around $1.2 billion in recent years. It is important to realize that when retail sales figures are given by the fur industry, less than 60% amounts to actual sales of fur. More than 40% of the income is from service, storage etc. There is a trend, in particular in the last year, to make fur more acceptable again. It is important that animal protection organisations and activists remain vigilant. What was cruel and unnecessary during the height of anti-fur campaigning in the late eighties is still cruel and unnecessary now.
FashionA number of fashion designers have committed themselves against fur and many models have joined the ranks. The long lasting campaign of People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals has brought many celebrities to make a stand for animals. Fake or faux fur has obtained a secure place in the fashion scene and many fashion magazines have chosen not to promote animal fur again.
Fur Trim90% of fur from foxes that are killed on fur farms is not used as coats but as fur trim. Most of the trapped Marten in the US goes the same way. It has become so cheap that it has replaced the artificial article. This indicates partly how the fur trade has managed to survive the dramatic drop in sales of fur coats. Many people are not aware that the fur collar, boot trim or glove linings are made of real fur which is obtained through the same atrocious process as fur coats. Sales people in their ignorance often claim that the fur must be fake if it is that cheap. One has to make absolutely sure however before buying. See "Real or Fake?".
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